Viewed from Victoria Peak, Hong Kong surely rates as one of the most stunning cities in Asia, if not the world. In the foreground rise the skyscrapers of Hong Kong Island, while beyond them is the incredible bustle of Victoria Harbour, where all manner of watercraft — from the historic Star Ferries to cruise liners, cargo ships, and wooden fishing vessels — compete for space. On the other side is the Kowloon Peninsula, growing by the minute with ambitious land-reclamation projects, housing estates, and ever-taller buildings, all set against a dramatic backdrop of gently rounded mountains.

Every visitor to Hong Kong should eat dim sum in a typical Cantonese restaurant, ride the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbour, and, if the weather is clear, take the Peak Tram for the glorious views from Victoria Peak.

Victoria Peak

At 392m, Victoria Peak is Hong Kong Island’s tallest mountain and offers spectacular views. Since the Peak is typically cooler than the sweltering city below, it has always been one of Hong Kong’s most exclusive places to live. More than a century ago, the rich reached the Peak via a 3-hour trip in sedan chairs, transported to the top by coolies. In 1888 the Peak Tram began operating, cutting the journey to a mere 8 minutes.

Hong Kong Museum of Art

Because of its location on the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront just a 2-minute walk from the Star Ferry terminus, this museum is the most convenient and worthwhile if your time is limited. Feast your eyes on ceramics, bronzes, jade, cloisonné, lacquerware, bamboo carvings, and textiles, as well as paintings, wall hangings, scrolls, and calligraphy dating from the 16th century to the present. The Historical Pictures Gallery provides a visual account of life in Hong Kong, Macau, and Guangzhou in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Another gallery displays contemporary Hong Kong works by local artists.

Man Mo Temple

Hong Kong Island’s oldest and most important temple was built in the 1840s and is named after its two principal deities: Man, the god of literature, and Mo, the god of war. Two ornately carved sedan chairs in the temple were once used during festivals to carry the statues of the gods around the neighborhood. But what makes the temple particularly memorable are the giant incense coils hanging from the ceiling, imparting a fragrant, smoky haze — these are purchased by patrons seeking good health or a successful business deal, and may burn as long as 3 weeks.

Yuen Po Street Bird Garden

Birds are favorite pets in Chinese households; perhaps you’ve noticed wooden bird cages hanging outside shops or from apartment balconies, or perhaps you’ve even seen someone taking his bird for an outing in its cage. To see more of these prized songbirds, visit the fascinating Yuen Po Street Bird Garden, Prince Edward Road West, Mongkok, which consists of a series of Chinese style moon gates and courtyards lined with stalls selling songbirds, beautifully crafted wood and bamboo cages, live crickets and mealy worms, and tiny porcelain food bowls. Young children love it here. Take the MTR to Prince Edward Road station and walk 10 minutes east on Prince Edward Road West, turning left at the overhead railway onto Yuen Po Street. Admission to the garden is free and it’s open from 7am to 8pm.

Macau is a unique destination in the world, an intriguing mix of Chinese and Portuguese traditions and culture. Like Hong Kong, Macau is a Special Administrative Region of China, permitted its own internal government and economic system for another 50 years. As with Hong Kong, no advance visa is required.

Macau has beaches, churches, fortresses, temples, gardens, museums, and fascinating neighborhoods to explore, as well as restaurants serving wonderful Macanese cuisine. What’s more, Macau’s prices are cheaper than Hong Kong’s, including accommodations and dining.

Macau comprises a small peninsula and Taipa and Coloane, two islands that have merged due to land reclamation and are linked to the mainland by bridges. The peninsula — referred to simply as Macau and surrounded by an Inner and an Outer Harbour — is where you’ll find the city of Macau, as well as the ferry terminal and most of its hotels, shops, and attractions. Macau’s main road is Avenida Almeida Ribeiro; about halfway down its length is the attractive Largo do Senado (Senate Square), Macau’s main plaza.

Hiring a bicycle is one of the best ways to explore towns and their environs. Bike lanes are common and roadside repair are everywhere. Beijing, with its spread-out sights and flat terrain, is the most cycle-able of the big city, maybe you are willing to travel by bike. Make sure that any bike you rent has a lock provided. Handy bike stands are found in big cities and have an attendant to watch the bikes for a nominal fee.

Main streets, avenues, and thoroughfares are often divided into different sections based on the four cardinal points. For example, Zhongshan Lu (Zhongshan Road) may be divided into Zhongshan Xi Lu (East Road) and Zhongshan Dong Lu (West Road). Similarly, you may also see Zhongshan Bei Lu (North Road) and Zhongshan Nan Lu (South Road). Road names in large cities such as Beijing and Shanghai also display the pinyin translation, but in smaller towns and remote destinations, only Chinese is used. Apart from lu (road), other key words to look out for are jie (street), dajie (avenue, literally “big street”), hutong and xiang (lane or historic alleyway).

China’s network of road transport connects most cities, as well as distant, rural areas. Bus travel is essential for reaching places that are not served by train. Tickets are both easier to procure and are cheaper than train tickets, and there is a wider choice of departure times, stops, and itineraries.

There are still many parts of China that are not accessible by train, making it necessary to make the long haul by road. In Fujian, bus travel makes a lot of sense. In Guizhou and Guangxi, the more interesting areas inhabited by ethnic minorities are only accessible by bus and the tropical area of Xishuangbanna in Yunnan is best explored by bus or taxi. You will also need to take a bus (unless you are flying) to reach Lijiang in northern Yunnan and all of western Sichuan.

Many smooth, wide highways now link some of the major cities, making some bus travel, particularly on the east coast, reasonably comfortable. In some cases, the bus is now a faster way to reach your destination than the train.

Traveling by road is generally much cheaper than traveling by train. Tickets are sold at long-distance bus stations and, unless you are hoping for a seat at the front of a luxury bus, do not need to be bought in advance. Main bus stations invariably have computerized ticket offices, and the queues are much shorter than those at train stations.

China is a vast country, for many travelers, train journeys are an excellent way to see the beautiful scenery. The Chinese train network is extensive. Trains in China are punctual, fast, and safe, and are a reliable transport option. It is advisable to either buy your ticket well in advance, or ask your hotel or travel agent to arrange your bookings.

China has an efficient and extensive train network that covers every province. Chinese trains can be quite comfortable, and there are fast services running between most large towns and cities.

Each train is identified by a train number, written on the outside of each carriage, that indicates its route and destination. As a rule, incoming and outgoing trains running between two destinations are numbered sequentially. For example, train K79 travels from Shanghai to Kunming, while train K80 runs from Kunming to Shanghai.

Trains are of three types: those with numbers prefixed by the letter “T” or “K” are express (te kuai) or fast (kuai) trains, and those whose numbers have no prefix are ordinary (pu kuai) trains, with frequent stops. Express trains have carriages of all classes, and are the most modern and comfortable, with few stops and superior services. Double-decker trains with soft-seat carriages run on a few short intercity routes such as Beijing–Tianjin or Shanghai–Hangzhou. All long-distance trains are equipped with sleepers.

There is no smoking permitted within compartments, except in hard-seat carriages, although most trains allow passengers to smoke in the corridors. Most trains have dining cars, and staff will continuously push trolleys through the carriages selling noodles, snacks, mineral water, coffee, and newspapers. China’s modern trains are clean.

Chinese trains have four classes. The most advanced class is Soft Sleeper (ruan wo), with four comfortable berths per compartment. Offering more security, and cleanliness than less-expensive classes, soft sleeper tickets are expensive, and are not much cheaper than air tickets on certain routes.

For long journeys lasting over six hours, Hard Sleeper (ying wo) is the best way to travel. Hard sleeper can be an economical choice when traveling between cities overnight, as it saves the cost of a night in a hotel. Carriages consist of doorless compartments, each with six bunks. Tickets are of three types – upper berth (shang pu), middle berth (zhong pu), and lower berth (xia pu), with a small price difference between each. The lowest berth is the most expensive, while the top one is the cheapest. The best berth, however, is the middle one. The upper bunk has little head-room and is closest to the speakers. During the day, the lower bunk acts as seating and fills with fellow passengers. Pillows, sheets, and blankets are provided by the railways, as are two thermos flasks of boiling water. Once aboard the train, the inspector will exchange your ticket for a metal token, and return the ticket at the end of the journey.

The cheapest class is Hard Seat (ying zuo), which seats three people side-by-side on lightly cushioned seats. It is possible to upgrade (bu piao) once aboard the train, if there are seats available in the class of your choice. Note that hard-seat tickets bought on the same day are usually unreserved. Available only on certain routes, Soft Seat (ruan zuo) carriages are much more comfortable and spacious than hard seat, and seat two people side-by-side in numbered seats.

When buying tickets, it is essential to plan in advance. On most routes, it is vital to buy tickets at least two or three days before you travel, although tickets are available about five days before departure. On short routes, you may be able to secure a ticket just before departure, but it is safest to buy in advance. Tickets on longer routes are certain to sell out, especially those for hard sleepers.

Train fares are calculated according to the class and the distance traveled. All tickets are one-way, so you will need to buy another ticket for the return journey. Joining the crowds at station ticket counters can be very trying, so unless the station has a separate ticket office for foreign visitors, which is the case at Beijing train station, consider asking your hotel, tourist office, or travel agent to buy tickets for you – they should be more than happy to do so for a small fee.

Before boarding the train, visitors wait in a hall before filing past ticket-checkers to the platform. Retain your ticket as inspectors will ask to see it again, just before you reach your destination.

All Major international airlines fly to China. Air China, the country’s international carrier, has quite basic service and facilities are competitively priced. North American and European carriers such as United Airlines, British Airways, Virgin, Lufthansa, KLM, and Air France, have regular flights to some, or all, of China’s three main – and most sophisticated – airports at Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Beijing. Flights to the other parts of the Far East, Australia, and New Zealand are offered by Singapore Airlines, Japan Airlines, All Nippon Airways, Korean Air, Qantas, Cathay Pacific, Air New Zealand, and others. Cheap flights to China are also available via Air China, China Eastern, Aeroflot, and Malaysia Airlines.

Although traveling by air is more expensive than traveling by train, it is often the most convenient and comfortable way of covering the long distances involved in Chinese travel. In fact, if you need to get quickly from one end of the country to the other, there is often no alternative. The extensive domestic flight network involves numerous regional airlines flying to over 150 airports. The main cities of Beijing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dalian, Guangzhou, and Xi’an are particularly well connected to airports throughout the country. Domestic air tickets are straight-forward to buy, so wait until you arrive and then shop around for discounts. Flight cancellations and delays due to bad weather are common, especially in winter and on less traveled routes in the more remote provinces, so remember to reconfirm your ticket and the time of your flight.

Although there are great climatic disparities within China, spring and fall are generally the best months to travel. The peak tourist season, however, is during summer (June to September), best avoided if you don’t like the heat – it is baking hot in North China, steamy in the Yangzi region, and sweltering in South China. Winter is fiercely cold in North China, particularly in the northeast. Winters in South China are more pleasant, especially on the perennially warm Hainan Island and parts of Yunnan province. Planning a trip to coincide with the holiday and festival periods can lead to a fun and colorful trip experiencing China at its liveliest. However, tickets for air, train, and bus transport can be very difficult to acquire, as half of China will be traveling as well. Tourist sights are swamped with local sightseers, and most hotels and guesthouses raise their rates.

The clothes you need will depend on the time of year that you visit. In northern China, from November until March, you will require a down jacket, gloves, sweater, warm socks, thermal leggings, sturdy footwear, and lip balm. During the same season in the south, you still need a sweater and warm clothes, even as far south as Hong Kong. In summer, across most of China, you only need loose-fitting shirts or t-shirts, and thin trousers. Shorts will also do, though not many Chinese wear them. Bring a first-aid kit, raincoat, sun hat, deodorant, pocket knife, flashlight, and some good reading material.

Advance Booking of hotel rooms is only necessary during the peak holiday periods between May 1 and October 1, and perhaps during the Chinese New Year. Nonetheless, booking in advance using the internet can secure you good deals on accommodations. Unless traveling on short intercity routes, train tickets should be bought a few days before travel, as seats can be in short supply. Train tickets can only be purchased up to five days in advance of the day of travel. Bus and air tickets need not be booked in advance, although airplane tickets can become scarcer during major holiday periods.

A multitude of tour companies ferry groups of photo-snapping tourists through the top sights of China. If you are thinking of booking a tour, do your research carefully; it is essential to find one that suits you well. Beyond the obvious essentials of types of accommodation, transport, the size of the group, and the itinerary, be sure to ask about the tipping policy.

Train Spotting

With such an extensive rail network, China has been a favorite destination of train lovers for years, particularly as it has continued to run steam locomotives well. The last line to run steam, the Jitong railway, which crosses the Jinpeng Pass in Inner Mongolia, is currently scrapping its remaining steam locomotives. However, tours to highly industrialized areas will certainly continue to run, as many private lines at mining pits still use steam.

Cycling

China is a great bicycle kingdom. You will see more from a bike than a bus, and gain greater insight into the lives of the locals. A well-organized tour should provide alternative transport if you become exhausted or fall ill, and will have all the fix-it gear and able mechanics to deal with problem chains. Itineraries are set at different levels, from easy to challenging, and some companies provide bikes, while others ask that you bring your own wheels to keep costs down.

In rural areas, renting a bike for a day or two is the best way to see sights just outside of town and get a feel for countryside life. There are plenty of bike-hire shops in most places, and many hotels can also arrange bike rental. In cities remember to park in designated areas and keep to cycle lanes where possible.

Martial arts

China attracts thousands of martial arts enthusiasts hoping to find the roots to their practice. Many head for famous Shaolin Temple in Henan, where Bodhidarma is said to have first taught the monks exercises that developed into shaolin quan during the 6th century. The temple is surrounded by kung fu schools, which have courses that range from a week to six months or longer. The less well-known monastery on Wudang Shan in Hubei, said to be the home of tai ji quan, also has schools of martial arts.

Most forms of kung fu have become popular and effective ways to keep fit. There are plenty of sports institutes in China with classes, you may have difficulty finding an English speaking instructor. Head to one of the traveler heaven, such as Yangshuo, Dali, or Lijiang, and you are certain to find capable instruction in English. Of course, you can always try joining the leagues of kung fu practitioners at daybreak in the nation’s parks, particularly if your interest is tai ji quan.

Climbing

Most of China’s sacred and scenic mountains, such as Tai Shan and Huang Shan, have steps, cable cars, and crowds all the way to the summit. Some of the mountains have less-used paths that make for pleasant hiking, but if you are a mountaineer, you will need to head to western China. The true roof of the world awaits in Tibet – topping Mount Everest will require patience and official approval, but treks to Everest base camp in the Rongbuk Valley are offered by several travel operators. Other spectacular climbs include Gongga Shan in Sichuan and also Muztaghata in Xinjiang, but, again, seek permission first.

More feasible is rock climbing at Yangshuo in Guangxi, where the limestone crags that inspired poets down the centuries now inspire climbers up the peaks. Asia’s fastest developing sport climbing area combines a wide range of climbs with beautiful views, winding rivers and great accommodations.

A few intrepid spelunkers have been exploring the extensive karst cave network of Guangxi. A small industry of caving tours has developed, although, for the most part, the itineraries are geared to the experienced spelunker.

Trekking

The fascinating southwest offers some of the best trekking possibilities in the country, such as exploring the jungle of Xishuangbanna or visiting remote Tibetan monasteries. Horse riding trips are possible in the heavenly mountains of Xinjiang and the national parks of Sichuan. Check with specialist tour companies and the Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Association. Whitewater rafting trips are popular in the southwest and in Tibet.

Wildlife & Bird Watching

Watch a panda at the Wolong Nature Reserve or in the Breeding Center, where efforts are made to conserve the threatened species. Bird-watching tours head to Qinghai province for Bird Island on Qinghai Hu, and to parks such as Zhalong National Reserve, in the northeastern province of Heilongjiang, where the largest wetland ecological region in China hosts over 300 bird species.

GAMES

Playing games in public parks is a timeworn Chinese custom, and though visitors may feel too inhibited to challenge locals to a game, they are great fun to watch. Some Chinese games date back thousands of years. The most well-known game is mahjong, which uses plastic tiles, originally made of bamboo or ivory. The rules are similar to rummy, with players trying to create identical, or consecutively numbered, sets. More advanced versions of the game have special tiles representing the four winds, four dragons, seasons, and flowers. When a game is in full swing, the quick movements of the participants make the tiles click and clatter – a popular translation of mahjong is “chattering sparrows.”

Chinese checkers (xiangqi) is another popular game. Here, there are two opposing sets of round counters. The board is divided into squares by nine vertical and ten horizontal lines. The board game Go (weiqi) dates back more than 4,000 years. Also known as encirclement chess, it involves two opposing sides, each with a set of circular stones, struggling for territory.

SPECTATOR SPORTS

The most popular sports at schools and colleges are basketball, badminton, and table tennis (ping pong), and the Chinese excel internationally in the latter two. The top European clubs have a strong fan-base in China, and Chinese soccer players are now being recruited by them. Fitness centers and gyms are becoming increasingly popular in cities. Traditional martial arts such as tai ji quan are popular amongst the older generation, and people practice early in the morning in parks, squares, and gardens.

TRADITIONAL FORMS OF THEATER

Beijing opera(jingju) is a world famous traditional art form unique to China. It is highly stylized, and characters wear elaborate costumes with special makeup and masks. Performances usually take place on a simple stage with few props.

The Chinese circus has a worldwide reputation for its highly-trained gymnasts who perform breathtaking routines that showcase their unnerving flexibility. Displays of balance often involve household props, such as brooms, plates, and chairs, with one of the most popular tricks being performed by 20 or so acrobats piled precariously on a bicycle. These routines are often combined with acts involving caged and tame animals, but the current trend is toward a purer display of acrobatics.

Some forms of traditional dance still exist, especially among China’s ethnic groups. Some relate to shamanistic or other religious rituals, and often involve the wearing of special masks.

SHADOW PLAYS & PUPPET THEATER

Shadow plays (piyingxi) are popular. These are manipulated close to a white sheet and lit from behind, throwing their shadows on to the sheet. The performance is accompanied by singing and music. Plays with wooden puppets (mu’ouxi) involve elaborate and colorfully dressed marionettes, glove puppets, or puppets on the end of rods.

TRADITIONAL MUSIC

Chinese music can be traced back as far as the Shang era. Ancient sets of 65 bells from the 5th
century BC have been unearthed. During the Tang dynasty, the traditional musical forms began to take root and music was also an important part of Confucian education.

Traditional instruments include strings, winds, and percussion. String instruments played with the fingers, plectrum, or bow are the Chinese violin, horizontal harp, and many-stringed zithers, such as the zheng. The lute-like pipa is one of the most important stringed instruments. The most common bamboo flutes are the vertical (xiao) and horizontal (di). The hulusu made from a gourd and bamboo is popularly used in folk music. The sheng, one of the oldest Chinese instruments, has up to 17 bamboo pipes and a vibrating reed. Another ancient instrument is the earthenware xun. Dating back 8,000 years, and sometimes made of bone or ivory, it has a mouthpiece and a series of holes for varying the tones. Percussion instruments include gongs, chimes, drums, woodblocks, and xylophones.

KITE FLYING

Kite flying is a major hobby in China, especially on public holidays when parks, gardens, and even city squares are crowded with displays of colorful and fantastically-shaped kites, soaring to considerable heights. Birds and dragons are the most common kite designs.

BARS, DISCOS & KARAOKE

In recent years, bars, discos, and karaoke lounges have sprung up all over China, especially in big cities such as Beijing and Shanghai. Some bars specialize in live bands, and these are very popular with expats, foreign visitors, and urban Chinese. Coffee bars are also increasingly popular with young people, although the older generation remain faithful to their green tea and traditional teahouses

CINEMA

China has traditionally produced many good films, based mainly on folk tales, romantic love stories, or strong patriotic themes. More recently, Chinese cinema has opened up to embrace international tastes. Apart from Hong Kong, there are few places in China that show movies in English or with subtitles.

Market and small shops sell interesting souvenirs in travel centers throughout China. Traditionally styled items can be found just about everywhere, while many other crafts are regional. You can find beautifully intricate embroidery in the southwest, prayer wheels and flags in Tibet, carpets in Xinjiang, and ginseng in the northeast. When shopping in markets it is essential to bargain. Friendship stores and gift shops at factories usually have fixed.

Calligraphy

A skill as revered as painting, calligraphy is an ancient Chinese art that is a fluid form of self expression. Master calligraphers practice their art assiduously, and one of their works could be very expensive. Less costly examples of calligraphy are widely available.

Scrolls painted with elegantly striking script make excellent souvenirs. Skilled calligraphers will paint chosen sayings in different styles or you can purchase pre-painted works.

Marble chops are traditionally used to imprint a calligrapher’s seal on to a work. At many craft markets vendors create personalized chops by carving a character version of a person’s name on the base.

Writing brushes should have a defined tip and firm fur bristles. Ink sticks made of soot are ground
down and mixed with water on an ink stone. Painted on paper or silk with simple brushstrokes, painting is one of the most important traditional arts. Many paintings now have contemporary touches

Ceramics

Chinese ceramics are known the world over. They have been mass produced for hundreds of years, with fired pots being passed through a line of artisans, each adding a layer to the glaze. Porcelain, a fine, translucent ceramic, was invented during the Sui dynasty, and high quality pieces are still produced.

Jingdezhen in Jiangxi has been one of the main producers of porcelain since the 10th century. It still produces fine pieces, although some of the cheaper wares may be decorated by stencil.

Yixingware, or purple sand pottery from Ding Shan in Anhui, is usually a dark reddish brown, but can also be green, buff, or gray.

Silk

Woven from the strands that make up a silk worm’s cocoon, silk is also a Chinese invention. Clothes made of silk, such as ladies’ cheongsams, are widely available, but be aware that silk sold in markets is likely to be rayon. Beautiful embroidery on silk is also available.

Other traditional handicrafts

Occasionally created by skilled craftsmen but often mass produced, Chinese handicrafts are almost always highly intricate and of vibrant color.

Jade, a semi-precious stone, is associated with immortality. These pendants are green, but the lustrous gem can also be gray or brown.

The best paper cuts are made in a few minutes by a master craftsman with a pair of scissors. Most paper cuts are mass produced, with many simultaneously cut to a pattern.

Glass snuff bottles were popularized during the Qing dynasty, when snuff usage was common. Using a hooked brush, artisans paint miniature scenes inside.

Cloisonne vases, boxes, and jars have been copper-enamelled: copper is faced with pieces of colored enamel and fired, creating a shiny finish.

Baoding balls are weighted and sometimes contain a chime. The two balls are maneuvered in one hand, strengthening grip and massaging the channels through which qi runs.

Tea, often sold in colorful tin caddies, is available everywhere. Tie guanyin and other oolong teas of Fujian are very fine. Pu’er is a specialty of the southwest.