The sprawling modern capital of Jilin province is cheerfully known as “Eternal Spring” despite its brutal winter. Changchun today has emerged as an attractive, green city in China’s northeastern “rustbelt,” famed for its car production.

Changchun’s only major sight of interest is the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, the residence of the “Last Emperor,” Pu Yi, the Emperor of Manchukuo. Located in the city’s northeast, the palace, with its period furnishings and old photographs, serves as an apt epitaph to the tragic folly of Pu Yi’s life. The palace lacks the majesty of the Forbidden City, and instead is suggestive of the sanctuary of an exiled monarch. Recent renovations have, however, restored much of its former grandeur. It is now a fascinating museum of artifacts relating to the 13 powerless years that Pu Yi spent here. Scenes from Bertolucci’s 1987 epic film The Last Emperor were filmed here. Other period buildings include the Manchukuo State Council Building on Xinmin Dajie in the southeast of city. Open to the public, the building is a government structure that features a brass Otis elevator that once ferried Pu Yi aloft.

In the northeast corner of People’s Square on the main street of Renmin Dajie stands Banruo Temple, an active Buddhist temple dating to 1921. Inside the main hall is a statue of Sakyamuni with attendant arhat. Changchun is also famous for its cinematic output and the city’s film studio can be visited, although it is only really of interest to specialist film buffs.