Sandwiched between Er Hai to the east and the Cang Shan range to the west, the picturesque little town of Dali draws innumerable visitors. The old town, surrounded by the remains of the Ming city walls, is characterized by cobbled lanes and stone houses. In the nearby countryside, numerous Bai villages offer a glimpse into traditional culture, and are particularly interesting on market days. Other activities include hiking in the mountains, and watching traditional cormorant fishing on Er Hai. The best time to visit is during the Spring Fair, when hundreds of Bai come for five days of bareback horse racing, wrestling, dancing, and singing.

Dali’s old town center, just 4 sq km across, can be explored in a single morning. It takes about half an hour to walk from the South Gate to the North Gate across town. There is plenty to interest visitors, from small souvenir shops to teahouses and traditional masseurs. Crowds of shoppers and farmers also arrive here for the weekly Friday market. The best vantage point is at the top of Nancheng Men (South Gate), from where there are views to Er Hai and Cang Shan.

San Ta

The distinctive San Ta (Three Pagodas) that symbolize Dali once stood within the monastery of Chongwen Si, destroyed during the Qing Dynasty. A 20-minute walk or short bus ride north of town, the pagodas are best visited early, before the tour buses arrive. The 16-tiered, square-based Qianxun Ta is the tallest of the three at 70 m, and is also the oldest, dating to around AD 800. Each tier is embellished with fine marble figures. Buddhist relics including sutras (scriptures), copper mirrors, and gold ornaments were found during a renovation in 1979, and are displayed in a museum behind the pagodas. The two smaller octagonal pagodas were built in the 11th century, and are 42 m high. As well as serving as reliquaries, they were built to appease the gods and thus gain protection against natural disasters. The characters inscribed in front of the Qianxun Ta read “subdue forever mountains and rivers.”

Zhonghe Si (Zhonghe Temple)

Situated an hour’s walk from town, Zhonghe Si can be reached by heading past the small bridge to the north of Dali into the cedar and eucalyptus woods at the foothills of Zhonghe Feng. From here, zigzag paths lead up the mountain to the temple. An easier approach is via the chairlift from the main road. Originally built in the Ming-era, the temple has been reconstructed and serves both Daoists and Buddhists. The views from here over the lake and town are superb. Locals offer horse trips farther up the mountain, and for the ambitious, there is a 9-km hike along a stone path to Wuwei Si, where monks study Tai Ji Quan. Visitors can stay the night before heading back.

Guanyin Si (Guanyin Temple) & Gantong Si (Gantong Temple)

Approx 5 km apart from Dali. Dedicated to the Buddhist Goddess of Compassion, Guanyin Si sits at the foot of Foding Shan. It has a colorful new entrance, and within the grounds are fine wood and stone carvings. At the back of the temple, a 3-km path leads uphill to Gantong Si (Gantong Temple). Alternatively, you can hike the spectacular 11-kilometer Jade Belt trail from Zhonghe Si. Once Gantong Si was the largest shrine in the area. Today, despite only two partially restored halls surviving, the temple remains impressive.

Er Hai

Located 3 km east of Dali, Er Hai (Ear Lake), a symbol of natural fecundity to the Bai nationality, is named after its shape. The 40-km long lake has numerous ferry services and is home to 50-odd species of fish. Any cafe in Dali can arrange a tour on the lake; most trips usually involve visits to small temples, or excursions to scenic spots on the eastern shore. Visitors can also accompany a cormorant fisherman and watch the trained birds catch fish. A variety of tour boats, from big, virtual floating pagodas for large groups, to smaller craft, leave from Caicun on Er Hai’s western shore.

Tours usually take in Jinsuo Dao (Jinsuo Island), across the lake near its eastern shore. Once a summer retreat for Nanzhao royalty, it is now home to a fishing village. Farther north lies Xia Putao, a tiny rocky crag with a Buddhist temple.

At the southern tip of the lake, Er Hai Park was once a royal deer ranch during the Nanzhao Kingdom. A lush path leads up to a peak, which offers splendid views.