Datong City is situated in Shanxi Province, near the southern flank of Inner Mongolia, Datong has some splendid sights worth exploring despite the coal mines and power stations that blight the surrounding landscape. The city was twice a dynastic capital, under the Northern Wei (AD 386-534), and the Liao (AD 907-1125). The Northern Wei were fervent Buddhists who carved and decorated the Yungang Caves nearby, while a significant relic of the Liao era survives in the Huayan Si (Huayan Temple), located in an alley off Da Xi Jie, west of the crossroads in the old town. Completed by the Jin, the temple was much restored by later dynasties. Raised up on a 4-m terrace, Huayan Si’s Great Treasure Hall (Daxiong Bao Dian) is one of China’s largest Buddhist halls. Within the hall sit five gilded and enthroned Ming-era statues with attendants. The ceiling panels are decorated with Sanskrit letters, flowers, and dragons. A short walk east of the crossroads on Da Dong Jie is Jiulong Bi (Nine Loong Screen), a 45-m tiled spirit wall built to front the palace of the 13th son of Hongwu, the first Ming emperor. Less than a mile south of the crossroads on Da Nan Jie is the Shanhua Si. Erected during the Tang era, it was subsequently destroyed by fire and rebuilt in the 12th century. The main hall has five Buddhist statues, flanked by 24 divine generals.

Yungang Caves

Carved into sandstone cliffs the caves at Yungang are one of China’s most celebrated accomplishments of Buddhist art. The assembly of over 51,000 statues was started by the Northern Wei dynasty in AD 453 to atone for their persecution of Buddhism. Hellenistic, Persian, Central Asian, and Indian influences are evident in the carvings, testifying to the many influences entering China via the Silk Road. When the capital moved from Datong to Luoyang, in AD 494, work at Yungang all but stopped. The statues, which range in size from the colossal to the minute, are accompanied by English explanations.

Xuankong Si (Hanging Temple)

One of China’s five sacred Daoist mountains, Heng Shan is also known as Beiyue (Northern Peak). The mountain range is a huge draw, its highest peak daring climbers to scale its 2,000 m slopes - a tradition started by the first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, and kept alive by later rulers. Its main attraction, however, is the spectacular Xuankong Si. Supported by slender wooden pillars, the temple seemingly clings precariously to the canyon’s walls. The Northern Wei were the first to build here, but flood waters from the Heng River below regularly washed the buildings away. The current edifice dates from the Qing dynasty. The temple’s 40-odd halls are hewn from natural caves and hollows in the rock, and are covered with wooden façades. They are connected by walkways and bridges, and contain statues of Confucian, Buddhist, and Daoist gods in stone, iron, and bronze. The Sanjiao Dian (Three Religions Hall) has statues of Confucius, Buddha, and Laozi all seated together.