Founded during the Han era, Guiyang remained a minor provincial center until it became the capital of Guizhou in the early 20th century. The city is situated in a valley along the little Nanming River, protected from the unlucky northern direction by high hills. Guiyang means “South of the Mountains,” although another translation, “Precious Sun,” reflects the general Chinese opinion of the province’s damp climate. An easy-going place, Guiyang is a steadily modernizing city surrounded by parklands, with a couple of historic relics dotted among its tower blocks. The Huaxi District to its south includes rural parks, a few villages inhabited by the Bouyi minority, and a well-preserved Ming-era town.

Jiaxiu Pavilion & Cuiwei Garden

The small Jiaxiu Pavilion was constructed in 1598 on a tortoise-shaped rock jutting out of Nanming River. It was built as an inspirational meeting place for scholars studying for the imperial civil service examinations. The pavilion is now a teahouse decorated with antique poetry scrolls. Its upper floor offers views of Guiyang’s modern downtown district. The 29-m high, three-storied wooden tower is connected to the banks by the arched, Fuyu Qiao (Floating Jade Bridge), made of solid stone. On the bridge’s southern side, Cuiwei Garden was originally part of a temple dedicated to Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Compassion. It was founded around 1500, although all that remain today are late Qing-era buildings.

Qianming Temple, Jue Garden, & Wenchang Pavilion

A few examples of Guiyang’s classic architecture survive around the city center. The most interesting is Qianming Temple, located on Yangming Lane on the north bank of the river. Its main point of interest is the street market outside, selling bonsai trees, pets, fishing gear, and Cultural Revolution memorabilia. Jue Garden is another temple, whose main attraction is the excellent vegetarian restaurant out front, which uses generous quantities of chilies to spice up the tofu, vegetable, and gluten dishes. Just off Wengchang Road, Wenchang Pavilion features an elegant three floor tower with flared and pointed eaves built between 1609 and 1669. It was originally part of the east city wall.

Qianling Shan Park

This scenic park comprises an unexpected patch of forested hills to the north of the city. A flagstone path leads uphill past several shrines, trees hung with red ribbons, and groups of monkeys to Hongfu Temple, the main attraction. Entry to the temple is past a 10-m marble stupa and a tiled screen depicting the infant Buddha being washed by nine colorful Loongs. The temple was originally founded in 1672, although its present buildings are of recent construction, including a Luohan Hall with several hundred painted statues of Buddhist saints. On the hilltop above, Kanzhu Pavilion offers fine views of the city.