A small Buddhist settlement since the Ming era, Hohhot became the capital of Inner Mongolia in 1952. Although it has expanded considerably in recent years, the city has kept some of its charm, visible in traditional mud-brick houses in the south, as well as a few temples and an excellent museum. However, the surrounding grasslands and the traditional way of life they support are probably the main interest. The greenery in summer makes it the best time to visit the city. Hohhot is largely inhabited by Han, with a small Mongol and Hui population.

Great Mosque

In the old southwestern part of the city, the attractive Great Mosque (Qingzhen Da Si) is best known for its fusion of both Chinese and Arab architectural influences. The main building, dating from the Qing dynasty, is constructed in black brick, while its minaret has a Chinese-style pagoda roof. It is an active place of worship, which permits non-Muslim visitors, especially if they are accompanied by a local Hui worshiper. The mosque’s prayer area, however, is reserved for Muslims. The surrounding Muslim area is well worth exploring, with its narrow alleys lined with restaurants selling delicious noodles and kabobs.

Xilitu Zhao

A short walk south of the Great Mosque in the old city, the Xilitu Zhao (Xilitu Temple) started off as a small Ming dynasty temple and is one of Hohhot’s oldest shrines. This Tibetan-Buddhist temple became the spiritual home of the 11th Grand Living Buddha in 1735. Since then, it has served as the official residence of successive reincarnations of the Grand Living Buddha, who presides over Buddhist affairs in the city. This version of the temple was built in the 19th century, after its predecessor burned down. Xilitu Zhao was also badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution, but has since been heavily restored. It is essentially Chinese in style, with a few Tibetan elements. Its dagoba (Tibetan-style stupa), for example, features Sanskrit writing, Chinese dragons, and tantric Tibetan murals that vividly depict the horrors of hell in gory detail. The temple is still active and the monks here are friendly and speak English. They are usually happy to show visitors around.

Da Zhao Temple

The largest Buddhist temple in the city, the Da Zhao is located in a narrow alley just west of Tongdao Nan Jie. Similar in style and layout to the Xilitu Zhao, it was originally built in 1579, and most recently renovated during the 1990s. The shrine was dedicated to the renowned Qing emperor, Kangxi, in the late 17th century, and murals in the main hall commemorate his visit. An astounding 3-m silver Sakyamuni Buddha is amongst the temple’s many treasures. Da Zhao also boasts an extensive collection of musical instruments and dragon sculptures, and is the venue for Buddhist festivals held through the year.

Wu Ta Temple

Just south of Qingcheng Park, amidst the remains of the old city, the Indian-style Wu Ta Temple (Five Towers Temple) is one of Hohhot’s most attractive buildings. It was constructed in 1727, as part of another temple that has now disappeared. The distinctive five pagodas surmount a solid looking base that contains a smallish temple with 1,563 images of the Buddha carved into its walls, each differing slightly from the others. Inside is a rare Mongolian cosmological map carved onto a large stone, which illustrates a zodiac and the positions of numerous stars.

Bai Ta

Bai Ta (White Pagoda) is a seven-storied, octagonal structure. It was first built in the 10th century to house Buddhist scriptures dating from the Liao dynasty. Over 50 m high, and made of wood and brick, it has some striking carvings inspired by Chinese mythology and nature, including coiled dragons, flowers, and birds. A winding staircase leads to the top, from where there are panoramic views. Bai Ta is best reached by taking a taxi from city.