Kaifeng lies in the middle of Henan Province of China. South of the Yellow River, the ancient walled city of Kaifeng, the capital of seven dynasties, which reached its zenith as the capital of the Northern Sung (AD 960-1126). Its glory days as a burgeoning Sung city are pictorially recorded in the 5 m long scroll “Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival” now kept in Beijing’s Forbidden City. You may read this article to admire this scroll: Seeing the Ancient Chinese Life from one Painting.

However, its prosperity could not prevent the Yellow River from repeatedly flooding the city, with a heavy loss of life. Significant buildings were also washed away. Today, Kaifeng is an attractive city with fine examples of temple and pagoda architecture and some lively markets.

Much of modern Kaifeng lies within the old city walls. In the west of the city is the large and peaceful Baogong Lake. Outside the city walls, 6 miles to the north, is the Yellow River Viewing Point. From the pavilion, there are expansive views across the vast silt plain of the winding river. Adjacent to the pavilion stands an iron statue of an ox, that was originally a charm to protect the city from floods.

Da Xiangguo Si

Kaifeng’s most celebrated temple is Da Xiangguo Si (Prime Minister’s Temple). Originally built in AD 555, it was China’s principal temple during the Sung Dynasty when it accommodated 64 halls and a huge legion of monks. Swept away by flood waters in AD 1642 at the end of the Ming dynasty, it was rebuilt around 1766. The octagonal pavilion at the back of the temple houses a remarkable statue of Guanyin, known as Qianshou Guanyin or the Thousand-Armed Goddess of Compassion. Carved from a single tree and covered in gold leaf, it is the temple’s finest statue, and its four-sided arrangement is a rare feature. The main hall has a frieze of Luohan. A sprawling open-air market lies near the temple.

To the west is the Yanqing Guan (Yanqing Temple), a small Daoist shrine known for the unusual design of its Pavilion of the Jade Emperor. This ornate, octagonal building, covered in turquoise tiles and carved brickwork, has a bronze image of the Jade Emperor inside.

Iron Pagoda

The 13-story Iron Pagoda rises up just within the Sung dynasty ramparts in the northeast of the city. This brick pagoda was built in AD 1049 and is covered with brown glazed tiles, which give the tower its metallic luster as well as its name. Visitors can climb the narrow interior staircase for views over the city and its walls. The pagoda is Kaifeng’s best known landmark.

Longting Park

Songdu Yu Jie, built on the Imperial Way - Kaifeng’s main thoroughfare during the Sung Dynasty - leads north up to Longting Park. It features reproduction Sung dynasty restaurants and shops selling antiques, calligraphy, and knick-knacks. The street gets progressively more touristy as it heads northward to Yangjia Hu (Yangjia Lake), originally part of the imperial park, and now surrounded by tourist attractions and amusement parks such as the popular Millennium City. Longting Park itself stands on the site of the Sung Dynasty Imperial Palace and its surrounding park. The Xibei Hu and Yangjia Hu lakes lie to its northwest and south respectively. The park is marked by several amusement rides for children, as well as the Qing Dynasty Loong Pavilion, and is an excellent place to watch the locals relaxing in their leisure time.