A large industrial city and Gansu Province’s capital, Lanzhou has for long been the key transport link between the Chinese heartlands and the Northwest. It was an important stop on the Silk Road at the beginning of the Hexi Corridor, and is thus culturally closer to the Northwest than to Central China. The Yellow River flows through the center of the city, and for centuries Lanzhou was the principal point for crossing the river. In fact, until the 19th century, a bridge created by chaining together a flotilla of boats was used. The first iron bridge was built in 1907. Although most of the attractions lie well away from the center, Lanzhou offers good food, shopping, and an excellent museum.

Baita Shan Gongyuan

To the north of the river, near Zhongshan Bridge, is Baita Shan Gongyuan (White Pagoda Hill Park). It takes its name from the 13th-century pagoda, Bai Ta, which was built as part of a temple at the hill’s summit. Steps have been carved into the steep slopes, while the walkways are dotted with teahouses, mosques, a plant nursery, and assorted pavilions. Chairlifts take visitors to the top from inside the park, or from town, on the other side of the river.

Baiyi Si

Baiyi Si, with its temple and accompanying stupa, was built during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). It is situated just a few hundred feet to the east of busy Jinchang Lu, on the north side of Qingyang Lu. The small temple’s unusual location, dwarfed by the towering and swanky department stores of Lanzhou’s main shopping district, makes it appear strikingly out of place, and worth a visit for this alone. Also worth seeing are the bronze chariots, with horses and attendants, from a tomb in the same area, as well as a fine collection of Yangshao pottery dating from the late Neolithic period. Other relics include Silk Road carvings, wooden spills, statuary, and writing tablets. In the garden, a mock tomb recreates burials in the Jiayuguan area in the late 3rd and early 4th centuries. Finally, a large exhibit commemorates the Long March.

Lan Shan Gongyuan

South of the city, Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lan Shan Park) can be reached by chairlift from Wuquan Shan Gongyuan. It is a 20-minute ride to the top, which is a pleasant place to escape the summer heat. Popular at weekends, it is a great spot to watch the sunsets, as well as the city lights at night. An amusement park and several eateries are also located here. A trail leads to Wuquan Shan Gongyuan.