Tibet’s capital since the 7th century, Lhasa is an intoxicating introduction to Tibet. The Potala Palace, dominates the city from its site on top of Marpo Hill. The old Tibetan quarter to the east is Lhasa’s most interesting area; its centerpiece is the revered Jokhang Temple. Around it is the Barkhor, which retains its medieval character with smoky temples and cobbled alleys. Most Tibetans come here as pilgrims. The additions of concrete buildings and internet cafes show how the city has changed over recent decades.

Potala Palace

Built on Lhasa’s highest point, Marpo Hill, the Potala Palace is the greatest monumental structure in Tibet. Thirteen stories high, with over a thousand rooms, it was once the residence of Tibet’s chief monk and leader and therefore the center for both spiritual and temporal power. It is a vast museum, serving as a reminder of Tibet’s devoutly religious culture. The first palace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631, and this was merged into the larger building that stands today. There are two main sections – the White Palace, built in 1645, and the Red Palace, completed in 1693.

Jokhang Temple

The constant bustle, gaudy paraphernalia of worship, flickering butter lamps, and wreaths of heady incense make the Jokhang Temple one of Tibet’s most memorable experiences. The Jokhang was founded in AD 639 to house an image of the Buddha brought as dowry by the Nepali Princess Bhrikuti on her marriage to King Songtsen Gampo. Its location was chosen by another wife of the king, the Chinese consort Princess Wencheng. She declared that a giant female demon slumbered beneath the site and a temple must be built over her heart to subdue her.

Lukhang

Picturesquely located on an island in the lake behind the Potala, and cloaked by willows in summer, this temple is dedicated to the king of the water spirits, who is depicted riding an elephant at the back of the main hall. The upper floors are decorated with striking 18th-century murals, representing the Buddhist Path to Enlightenment. Their great attention to detail and vivid stories offered visual guidance to the Dalai Lamas, who retired here for periods of spiritual retreat. Buddhist myths dominate the walls on the second floor, while the top-floor murals depict the esoteric yogic practises of the Indian tantric masters.

Ramoche

The three-story Ramoche, just north of the Barkhor area, is the sister temple to the Jokhang. It was built in the 7th century by Songtsen Gampo to house the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni (Tibet’s most venerated Buddha image), brought by his Chinese wife Wencheng. It was replaced by a bronze statue of an eight-year-old Sakyamuni, part of the dowry of another of his wives, the Nepalese Princess Bhrikuti.

The reconstructed temple features some huge prayer wheels, and is not as busy as the Jokhang. Next door is the Tsepak Lhakhang, a chapel with an image of Jampa, the Tibetan name for the Future Buddha.

Norbulingka

Today a pleasantly scrubby park, the park contains several palaces, chapels, and buildings. The path west from the entrance leads to the oldest palace, the Kelsang Potrang. Its main hall has a wealth of thangkas and a throne. More diverting is the Summer Palace. Its audience chamber holds bright murals depicting events from Tibetan history, from the tilling of the first field to the building of the great monasteries, including the Norbulingka. The Assembly Hall where he held state has a golden throne and colorful murals depicting scenes from the court, and episodes from the lives of Sakya Thukpa (Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha) and Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelugpa order of monks.

Samye Monastery

With its ordered design, wealth of religious treasures, and stunning location, Samye makes a deep impression on visitors. Tibet’s first monastery, Samye was founded in the 8th century during Trisong Detsen’s reign with the input of the great Buddhist teacher, Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinese scholars, invited to Samye to translate Buddhist scriptures into Tibetan, argued over the interpretation of doctrine, and so Trisong Detsen held a public debate to decide which form of Buddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indian school won out and Chinese-religious influence gradually waned. Today the monastery has a wellworn and eclectic feel, having been influenced by numerous sects over the years.