Though the proliferation of new buildings, this canal city has retained its charm, with its narrow streets, arched bridges, and whitewashed houses. Ancient Shaoxing was the capital of the Yue Kingdom during 770 — 221 BC. It remained important over the years even when Hangzhou became the Song Dynasty capital. Today, it is a scenic place to explore for its waterways.

The Qing Teng Shu Wu (Green Vine Study), former home of the 16th-century writer and artist Xu Wei, lies off Dacheng Long, an alley not far from Jiefang Nan Lu. Regarded as the best example of traditional domestic architecture in China, the house has a simple ornamental garden, while one of its rooms displays Xu’s expressive art.

There are also several houses associated with Lu Xun, perhaps the best known modern Chinese writer, born here in 1881. Most of them are clustered together on Lu Xun Lu. The Lu Xun Memorial Hall has no English captions, but Lu Xun’s Former Residence is a fine example of domestic architecture, with photographs, furniture, and personal items. Opposite is Sanwei Sushi, the school where he studied.

Shaoxing’s most famous bridge, the 13th-century Bazi Qiao, resembles the Chinese characters for number 8, and lies in a charming area of old streets off Baziqiao Zhi Jie, north of Lu Xun Lu.

The city makes a good base for several excursions. The scenic Dong Hu (East Lake) is nearby. Visitors can also take a boat to Yu Ling, allegedly the tomb of Great Yu, founder of the Xia Kingdom (2200 BC). Farther out is Lan Ting (Orchid Pavilion), where China’s greatest calligrapher, Wang Xizhi (AD 321 — 79), threw a party where, so one story goes, guests had to drink cups of wine as they floated past and compose a poem, recorded by the host.