Although blessed with very few sights, Qinghai’s captial, Xining, is home to a city mix of minority peoples, mostly Hui Muslims and Tibetans with a sprinkling of Kazakhs and Mongols. From the 16th century, it served as a stopover on the Silk Road’s lesser-used southern route, and is now a good base for exploring Qinghai. Xining lies in a remote valley, and, at 2,200 m, experiences a cool summer and freezing winter. The Great Mosque, one of the largest and most impressive in northwest China, is situated on Dongguan Dajie, close to the city center. Restored recently, it was originally built in the 14th century, and is thoroughly Chinese in design, with elements such as flying eaves and vividly-colored arches. Enclosed within is a public square, that is usually bustling with worshipers.

In the far north of town, across the Huangshui River, the Daoist Bei Shan Si sits atop a hill and is the focus for a pleasant afternoon’s hike. The route, via stone steps and across wooden walkways, passes numerous cave shrines decorated with Daoist symbols.

Xining’s ethnic mix is best appreciated at Shuijing Xiang Market, in the west of city off Xi Dajie, where over 3,000 stalls sell all manner of provisions and food, especially hot breads, mutton dishes, and kabobs. It is also a good place to stock up on snacks before heading off on a trip to Qinghai Hu, to the west of city.