Situated in the north of Ningxia, in the lee of the Helan mountains, Yinchuan is well protected from the harsh desert climate, and makes a good base from which to explore the surrounding sights. Today, Yinchuan is a pleasant and lively city, with a handful of interesting things to see. It consists of two parts, the new city (Xin Cheng) to the west near the railway station, and the old town (Lao Cheng), 7 km east, where the city’s main bus station and most of the sights are located.

Jiefang Jie, the old city’s main thoroughfare, has two well-restored, traditional Chinese towers. One is the large Gulou (Drum Tower), while farther east lies the Yuhuang Ge (Yuhuang Pavilion), which dates back to the Ming dynasty. Just south of the Drum Tower, Gulou Jie is the heart of the city’s busy shopping district and is lined with department stores.

West of Gulou Jie stands the 13-story, octagonal Xi Ta (West Pagoda), built within the grounds of the Chetian Temple. Originally built in the 11th century, the temple houses the Ningxia Provincial Museum which has a large collection of Western Xia artifacts. The museum also displays splendid items from the Silk Road era, and has a section on the indigenous Hui people. Followers of Islam, the Hui originally descended from Arab and Persian traders from the Middle East, who came to China during the Tang and Yuan eras.

Southeast of the museum, close to the bus station, is the South Gate (Nan Men) which resembles a miniature version of Beijing’s Tian’an Men. A short walk southwest of Nan Men, Nanguan Mosque is a modern building constructed in 1981 to replace the original 1915 shrine. It is an active place of worship that caters to Yinchuan’s Hui population. Unlike most mosques in China, it has hardly any Chinese features, and is built in a distinct Middle-Eastern style. In the northern reaches of the old city, the ancient Haibao Ta stands in the grounds of an active monastery. According to records, the 54-m tower, also known as the Northern Pagoda (Bei Ta), was first built in the 5th century AD. It was rebuilt in the 18th century in the original style, after an earthquake destroyed it in 1739. It is an unusually angular structure, with ledges and niches at every level. It is worth making the climb to the top of its nine stories, as there are terrific views across the city to the Yellow River and Helan mountains.